History

Nestled in northwest Portland, the Pearl is bordered by downtown (south), the Fremont Bridge (north), Old Town (east), and the Alphabet District (west). Home to a number of city landmarks (see below), as well as a few city celebrities (Blazer’s center Greg Ogden and film director Gus Van Sant), the Pearl is both urban and urbane appealing to the intellect and the senses. But on to the landmarks…

Any discussion of Portland’s landmarks begins with Powell’s Books. Located at 10th and Burnside, Powell’s is a city institution housing over one million titles (new and used). With its acres of nooks, crannies and bookshelves, patrons are offered a color-coded map designed to assist them in browsing. Do not browse in Powell’s without one!

Two other Pearl landmarks are related to the former Weinhard Brewing Company. The brewery building at [location], erected in 1908 by the Weinhards, functioned continuously through 1999, managing during Prohibition by producing “near beer”. The warehouse at [location] was originally an armory when built in 1891, but after WWII was no longer a public building. In 1960 (?) the Weinhards purchased the site for the brewery’s warehouse. In 2000, Gerding Elden purchased both buildings and their transformation wedded historic preservation with sustainable design. The former brewery, now the Gerding Theater (home to the renowned Portland Center Stage Company), earned platinum level certification from LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design). The former warehouse, now a stylish mixed-use complex, is a combination of condos, offices and retail space, including Henry‘s 12th St. Tavern. Along with LEED certification, this building earned listing in the National Historic Registry.

Two other Pearl landmarks, both parks, were developed in the last ten years. Jamison Park, located at [location], opened in 2002, and was originally designed with just square rocks and steps in its center. The trademark waterfalls were an afterthought, added to deter skateboarding. The resulting wading pool has made the park a magnet for families with children, happily creating a makeshift “community pond”. The park is named for the late William Jamison, an early proponent of the Pearl and owner of an art gallery. Just two blocks away sits Tanner Springs Park, opened in 2005. An urban “oasis”, the park recreates the original wetland environment of the Pearl and features a waterscape, native grasses and indigenous trees, including Oregon Oak and Red Alder. The park’s east wall is an installation made from railroad tracks recovered from the area.

These are just a few of the Pearl’s gems and do not include the historic buildings converted to lofts, such as Chown Pella, The Avenue Lofts, Irving Street Lofts, and The Marshall-Wells. Let’s put these on hold for a moment, and capture the Pearl’s true essence by taking a look back at its history.

History of the Pearl

Before it was “the Pearl”, the area was known as the “Northwest Industrial Triangle”, home of warehousing in Portland, due railroad proximity. However, with the advent of highways in the1950s, the warehouses relocated to the suburbs, and the neighborhood fell into disuse.

In the 1980s, artists and gallery owners began moving in, taking advantage of big spaces and reasonable rents. It was during this time that the district’s name was coined. Legend has it that gallery owner Thomas Augustine came up with the moniker, suggesting that the neighborhood warehouses were like crusty oysters, while the galleries and artists’ lofts within were pearls. Those curious for a glimpse of the Pearl during this time can pick up Gus Van Sant’s “Drugstore Cowboy”. Though it’s scarcely recognizable, the seedy neighborhood in the second half of the film is the Pearl, circa 1988.

In the late 1980s, developers began converting the Pearl’s historic warehouses into lofts. Among the first, was the Irving Street Loft building, converted in 1989 by John Gray. Gray transformed the seven storied building into 84 work/live units. His development was closely followed by the Honeyman Hardware Lofts (1990) and the Pearl Lofts (1994). The path to renovation was laid by the creation of the 13th Street Historic District in 1987. The association was formed by property owners seeking to preserve the historic architecture of their century old buildings and take advantage of the low taxes that come with a listing in the National Registry of Historic Buildings. The combination of urban beauty and tax abatement drove development in the Pearl for the next two decades, and helped create that district’s uniquely classic/modern feel.

The Pearl is pedestrian friendly, and the streetcar has helped keep it that way. Portland’s streetcar first appeared in the Pearl in 2001, and it was America’s first streetcar system since WWII. Originally proposed as part of Portland’s Central City Plan of 1988, when the Pearl was still nascent in its transformation, the neighborhood and the proposal grew together and are now inextricably linked. The cars originally took riders from the Pearl, across to the southwest, past the mall (Lloyd Center) and the Art Museum, to PSU and back. In 2006, an extension was added taking passengers to the South Waterfront District and OHSU. The unmistakable green cars are designed by two Czech firms, Skoda and Inekon.

No discussion of Pearl Directs firsts would be complete without First Thursday. Organized in 1986 by the newly formed Portland Art Dealers Association, this monthly gallery-walk is now an institution in the cultural life of Portland. What began as a humble effort to showcase new works and exhibitions, has become an event attracting 15,000 to 20,000 Portlanders monthly.

Clearly, gallery owners were instrumental in the Pearl’s development. Victoria Frey of Quartersaw, and Sheryl Snow of Blackfish, were among the first to settle in the Pearl, arriving in 1984. Dozens more followed as the district’s zoning code changed from M2 2 (industrial) to MX (mixed use) in 1985. On the first Thursday of the month, the Pearl’s streets hum as residents and visitors alike partake in the best the city has to offer.

The history of the Pearl is a happy one, but that’s not to say there weren’t eyebrows being raised along the way.

The Controversies

While the Pearl is a Portland success, and a testimony to urban renewal, the re-development has not been without critics. The thorniest issues for detractors: tax abatement, affordable housing, and the now-beloved streetcar.

How did the city lure developers into what had been an industrial ghost town? The answer: tax abatements. Tax abatements reward developers for buying in designated areas by offering property tax breaks for ten years. In exchange, developers are required to offer amenities such as open space, day care centers, and, most typically, affordable housing. When the tax breaks end, developers are free to set rents or convert to condos. Critics see this as rewarding developers for creating wealthy areas regardless of commitment to affordable housing.

Proponents argue that the point of tax abatements is urban planning, not housing. In the Pearl, the goal was to transform the old warehouse district in the city’s core into a thriving neighborhood. On its merits, it has succeeded. One need only walk around the Pearl today to see a neighborhood, not only thriving, but accruing awards (as mentioned above) for historic preservation and sustainable design.

And does this mean the Pearl has no affordable housing? Critics charge that the district has become a seat of affluence, pushing the poor into Old Town and beyond. But that’s a reductionist argument, at best. At the heart of the Pearl’s development is the agreement made between Hoyt Street Properties and the Portland Development Commission. In the mid 1980s, Hoyt Street Properties owned more than 30 acres in the Pearl, primarily vacant land. Before they broke ground on new buildings, they wanted a commitment to public transportation (hence the streetcar) and the removal of the ramp to the Broadway Bridge. The Portland Development Commission wanted land donated for parks and a commitment that 35% of the units in Hoyt Street Properties’ buildings would fall under affordable housing guidelines. A deal was reached. Currently, 15% of Hoyt Street Properties are dedicated to renters earning up to half of the median income for the metro area and 20% are dedicated to those earning up to 80% of the median income for the metro area. Did the practice succeed? According to Patricia Gardener, chair of the Pearl’s Neighborhood Association, it has. She is fond of saying that “[m]y favorite thing to do is take people into the middle of Jamison Park and say, ‘Okay, which one of these is the low-income housing project?’ It just kinds of integrates. I don’t think people think twice about it.” A ringing endorsement, don’t you think?

And finally, the streetcar. While a neighborhood fixture today, with the city expanding it to OMSI (Oregon Museum of Science and Industry), this too has had its share of naysayers. Early 3 on some feared it was a boondoggle. An anti-streetcar bias at the FTA (Federal Transportation Authority) resulted in Portland funding the project without federal dollars. More recently, Randall O’Toole of the Cato Institute, characterized the streetcar as redundant and wasteful, using taxpayer dollars to pay for something buses accomplish. Advocates counter that these criticisms miss the mark and that the streetcar’s success is self-evident. Since the streetcar began service, 10,000 residential units have been developed and $3.5 billion has been invested, all within two blocks of the streetcar line. And finally, over 40 cities across the country (including Cincinnati, Denver, and Charlotte, N.C.) are in the planning stages for their own lines using the Pearl’s streetcar as their model. Hmm.

Every change breeds cries and whispers, and the Pearl’s birth has been no exception. With the dust now settled one sees little to fuss about. The finished Pearl is truly a gem.

Livability

Part of the Pearl’s magic is its New York City flavor. Residents can walk out their door and steps away find anything they need: groceries, bistros, pet day care, the list goes on. And on their way, residents encounter real street life, filled with like-minded, yet diverse neighbors, who share a commitment to and support the district’s unique vision. This experience is what sets the neighborhood apart.

Part of the lure of Portland is its reputation as the rare American city where cars are not necessary. However, depending on where one lives, this can translate into miles-long bike rides in the rain or long waits for bus transfers. In the Pearl, however, this isn’t the case. The “Walk Score” (www.walkscore.com) for the Pearl is 99 (out of 100) and is referred to as “a walker’s paradise”. The rest of Portland gets a 66.

Additionally, the neighborhood is a leader in sustainable building. According to Green Guide, the Pearl has more LEED certified buildings per square mile than any neighborhood in the U.S. Among these are The Henry, with 937 condos, an eco-roof, and a storm water retention system and The Casey, with ground source heating and cooling. Sustainability has become the gold standard of the Pearl’s identity. As www.pearldistrict.com notes, “With each new crane that erects in the Pearl District, you can be sure the developers behind the construction are aiming for LEED certification.” Put another way: in the Pearl, it’s easy being green.

So what makes the Pearl “the Pearl”? Who can really say?

One could not concoct the finished Pearl from scratch. Its life is the unique product of history, time and love. The district’s genesis required developers with vision, politicians with courage, and artists, business people, and residents with a shared passion for the art of living. Its success is everyone’s good fortune. A trip to the Pearl is a visit to the crown jewel of Portland.